Friday, March 23, 2007

drathang monastery: millenium-old murals

while major portions of the religious and artistic heritage of tibet were destroyed during the fervor of the cultural revolution, a great deal also escaped destruction. this image is one instance of wall painting that has survived, and is located at the monastery of drathang in central tibet, one of the sites we will visit during the site seminar. the building in which the mural is housed was used as a granary during the cultural revolution.

the monastery itself was founded nearly a thousand years ago, in the late 11th century. its founder was a rather ‘eccentric’ figure, a nyingma monastic practitioner of tantra born to one of the highest of tibet’s aristocratic families, the chimpu (mchims phu). this highborn monk, drapa ngonshe (grwa pa mngon shes) later gave up his monastic vows, left the area and eventually came to be known in the nyingma tradition as an important tantric master and revealer of 'treasure texts.'

now in ruins, the monastery lies on a rich and fertile plain on the south bank of the tsangpo river in central tibet, not far from samye monastery. like samye, drathang’s main monastic building was three stories high, with the ground floor following tibetan style, the second following chinese and the top floor indian, according to descriptions of those who visited it before it was destroyed during the cultural revolution. this main structure was said to have been surrounded by satellite temples and three concentric rings. today only the ground floor remains.

images are from the paris-based shalu association which is working to protect tibet's cultural heritage and restore some monastic sites in tibet. although the artistic and religious treasures here have survived many centuries thus far, they did so under the care of active monastic communities. many are located in sites that no longer house a community with the commitment and resources to protect and maintain those treasures.

the itinerary

this trip spans most of the whimsical map pictured here. we begin in lhasa, and basically make our way west, past mount kailash, until we come to the end of tibetan territory in what was once the kingdom of guge. here is the itinerary as it now stands:
Day 1, June 7: Rest, Lhasa Museum
Day 2, June 8: Orientation to Lhasa
Day 3, June 9: Jokhang
Day 4, June 10: Drepung, Nechung
Day 5, June 11: Gongkhar Chode, Drathang, travel to Mindroling
Day 6, June 12: Mindroling
Day 7, June 13: Samye
Day 8, June 14: Kyeru, travel to Gyantse
Day 9, June 15: Gyantse
Day 10, June 16: Gyantse
Day 11, June 17: Nenying, travel to Shalu
Day 12, June 18: Shalu
Day 13, June 19: Shalu, travel to Shigatse
Day 14, June 20: Sakya
Day 15, June 21: Travel (via Kailash)
Day 16, June 22: Travel (via Kailash)
Day 17, June 23: Tholing
Day 18, June 24: Tholing
Day 19, June 25: Tsaparang
Day 20, June 26: Tholing
Day 21, June 27: Dungkar, Phiyang
Day 22, June 28: Dungkar, Phiyang
Day 23, June 29: Travel to Shigatse
Day 24, June 30: Travel to Shigatse
Day 25, July 1: Jonang Puntsokling, travel to Shigatse
Day 26, July 2: Tashilunpo
Day 27, July 3: Travel to Lhasa
Day 28, July 4: Potala
Day 29, July 5: Wrap up
on july 6th fly back to beijing. after a day there spent in the company of friends of a friend, i leave the evening of july 7 for new york.

from the tibetan plateau into the western himalayas

this summer a group of ten phd students will accompany five scholars of tibetan art history, architecture, history and religious and cultural studies on a monthlong trip across central and western tibet. starting in lhasa, we will head west, continuing past mount kailash until we reach the kingdoms of guge in western tibet. along the way, we will be visiting monasteries and the ruins of monastic sites from lhasa all the way into the western himalayas.

while it is unclear how feasible it will be to upload details of the trip as we progress, i will use this site to share images, observations and experiences when and as possible. using a gps lent to me by my friend (and my major sponsor for this trip) ed murphy, i will be collecting geocoding information for each site visited, and will later post links to satellite images of each site.

for more on this tibet site seminar, visit http://www.princeton.edu/TibetSem/region.htm